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tim77278
Nov 13, 2017

WHY REDESIGN THE SCUPPER KAYAK?

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Edited: Nov 13, 2017

 

 

 

The Scupper was my first design after I carved foot wells and dive hatch into an old tandem 12’ surfboard.

 

It has been an evolution since then. The first Scuppers were hollow fiberglass and could store more gear for diving or even 20 mile trips to Catalina Island. I built about 1500 of them. The hatches changed and the bottom got a bulge that made the first cathedral or “California form” hull shape that is now the norm for most kayaks. This kayak would do anything and weighed only 35 pounds.

It was also the world’s first fishing kayak.

 

 

 

Then the shape went into Polyethylene when I started roto molding the kayaks in 1986. This Scupper had the first supper holes in the seat and foot wells to ad strength and drain the kayak and was thus named the “Scupper”. These kayaks sold by the tens of thousands. They only weighed 45 pounds. They would surf and go on long paddles while being light for a plastic kayak.

 

 

We tried to replace the 14’ Scupper “Classic” with the Scupper Pro which was about 15.5 feet long and could carry more. People still demand the old 14’ classic. The Scupper Pro held more gear and vastly outperforms todays pudgy fishing kayaks that are slow, not very seaworthy and can’t go through the surf. After I sold Ocean Kayak in 1997 they discontinued both the classic and the pro. I asked myself how would I bring this Scupper type kayak up to date?

 

 

I paddle fast surf skis and took some of what makes them great and applied that to a new Scupper type kayak I call the Scuppro. I took the slicing bow and the powerful ergonomic paddling position from the Surf Ski and moved the seat forward about 5 inches. I made the length 14’ like the original Scupper but it went way faster and easier than the Scupper Pro even though it is shorter. It also goes really well in rough water and waves. It hauls more and is lighter @ about 59 lb for roto. Our composite will be about 38 lbs!

 

 

This isn’t a price point kayak yet it is a great value. Features include a bigger front hatch, a hatch cover over the rear well. Lower foot wells with one way valves which gives much more power and for added stability I am adding optional stabilizers in the rear to make it MORE stable than most wide fishing kayaks that can’t handle rough water and are very slow. We don’t want to be like another Ford Fiesta but like a BMW. We want to let you go easier for weaker paddlers and further no matter who you are. Check out my blog on why 14 feet long goes easier than a longer kayak. So there it is my 40+ love affair with a 14’ x 36” wide kayak design. I can go as fast now at 66 than I could with the old Scupper at 33. I hope I am getting older and wiser.

 

 

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  • friend18ctg
    Aug 6

    Kayaking is a great way to relax and just about everybody can take up kayaking or canoeing whether you are young or old. Kayaking caters for all types of needs and requirements whether it is for sport or recreation. You can buy sit on top kayaks for fun at the beach with the family, go kayak fishing, white water, or take the sport up as a professional racer. The cost of taking up kayaking can also be done on a budget as you can buy used kayaks for nominal amounts. The one area where kayaking can become a real pain is transportation. Unless you opt for an inflatable kayak that can easily be thrown into the back of your car, you will need to buy a roof rack or van to transport your boat to the water. Your transportation problems do not end there as in most cases the waters edge will not be by the roadside which means you will need to somehow get your kayak to the water by other means. Carrying a kayak over any distance and on your own can be impossible and what is more you will be exhausted by the time you get to your destination. Furthermore it is not just your kayak you will need to carry; you will have paddles, a life jacket, and food, together with any other kayak accessories you wish to take on your journey. Kayak trailers although expensive can really help out in getting your kayak to the water. That said I have yet to come across any kayak trailers that are quick and easy to fit. Maybe I am being too optimistic in thinking there should be, by now, a simple universal ‘click and go’ design by now but unfortunately I have yet to find one. I have two kayak trailers both of which cost in excess of $100 for not much more than a couple of go cart wheels and some aluminium tubing. However I do accept kayak trailers are a niche market so one must expect to pay a premium. The closest design I have seen to a ‘click and go’ solution is for a sit on top kayak where the aluminium bars of the kayak trailer simply slot into the scupper holes at the bottom of the boat and there is no strapping required. This is fine if your journey is predominately a flat surface. The problems arise if you need to go up a curb, stairs, cross a ditch or any other terrain where you would need to lift the kayak, as the kayak trailer simply falls out. Whilst this situation is manageable it is awkward and far from perfect. Similarly using kayak trailers which require the use of bungees or roof rack straps can be equally frustrating especially if you are trying to balance your boat whilst simultaneously trying to tie the kayak trailer to it. My answer to “is it worth investing in a kayak trailer?” would be yes, but at the same time I do think they are expensive and not without their faults.
  • keiko8922
    Aug 8, 2018

    G'day, frend. Recently I was touched with a not simple problem. I want to go fishing along the sea coast. Before that, I only fished in familiar places or uncovered ponds and always knew where to eat fish and where not. But now I can not know for sure where she is. I was advised to buy a fishfinder but I do not know how to read a fishfinder. Someone will tell me a good article or source where you can read it? Something like this : https://www.bestadvisor.com/how-to/how-to-read-a-fishfinder Thank you
  • rcthmihn
    Jun 1, 2018

    Hi, I'm wondering if anyone could provide some advice/insight into this matter. I'm used to paddling hard shell sea kayaks that track fantastic during my younger days but now stay in a flat with no storage space. Occasionally, I get to have fun in sea kayak models on demo days from outdoor stores here but space is a limitation. My gf and I decided to get an AE convertible so we can do some kayaking in the mountain lakes, she is a beginner kayaker. I bought a used AE convertible from someone in my area. Checking the model number which ends in 08, I guess it is a 2008 model which sadly is past the warranty date. He claimed he only used it once but didn't have time any more for it. The purchase came with an electric pump. Before I bought it, he said he inflated it and left it overnight and didn't find any leaks. I inspected the tubes visually during the purchase by partially inflating it and it seemed ok although I didn't take all the tubes out and fully inflate. I also bought a new AE manual hand pump with gauge to inflate it to the correct psi - I normally fill it up to 2.2, 2.3 because I know I'll lose some air when I disconnect the pump. During my maiden voyage in a lake in the Canadian rockies, I found that the convertible consistently tracked to the right during paddling and I had to correct often. Reading the forums, I thought that this was due to a kink in the tubes so I used the method of inserting paper at the Velcro strips and pushing with my feet at the bow and stern to straighten it out. Indeed, the tubes no longer forms a slight 'bend' after inflation. Disappointingly, the kayak still tracks to the right during my 2nd trip to another lake. I thought that a backbone may help so we purchased one. I watched how to put it properly over the landing plate on youtube. Sadly, the kayak still tracks to the right on my 3rd trip. Next problem, I notice during my first voyage the kayak tube no longer fills 'firm' after a break during lunch. Paddling was also quite difficult as it no longer seems to move through the water. I was confused so I tried pumping it up. Connecting the pump, I found the psi had dropped to 1. During my 2nd and 3rd trip, I paid more attention and found there was a slight hissing coming from valve 2 when I insert my manual pump. This results in a decrease in psi over time if I don't pump. Is this a problem with the pump or the valve? Does underinflation result in tracking problems? I'm in Calgary and there's a store here that's an authorized dealer for AE, should I bring it in to them to see if they can help or could the customer services here provide anything I should check first? Any help will be apprecited. I didn't find the right solution from the Internet. References: https://bit.ly/2sxeE6i Data Analysis Software Example Thank you.

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