When going out through big storm surf like above on the Washington coast remember this
Use a kayak like the ScupPro that slices through the breaking waves and keeps it's momentum and speed. The longer your in the high energy zone the more of a beating you take. Use a surf leash that goes from the paddle to the front of the kayak and don't let go of the paddle even if it drags you through the water. Consider timing of the waves as they can come in "sets" of 7 or so normally. Here there are more like giant surges that have different rhythms. There may be high energy zones that are good to sprint through and other zones that don't have much energy. Wear the right dry suit to keep your body temperature up so you don't get hypothermia from the cold. Knee braces or on a sit on top knee straps that enable you to pinch your knees and lock yourself in can be really helpful when surfing back in. If the kayak broaches and goes sideways in the waves the knee straps will keep your but in theboat better. Above all know your ability before you go out in the big stuff. Go with others.
This type of surf is completely different because it is a California South Swell that was generated hundreds of miles away and usually arrives with nice sunny weather without any wind at all. Here there are distinct "sets" of usually 7 waves and lulls in between them. On this day the surfers couldn't make it out in between the sets so we had the waves all to ourselves. You can see the kelp beyond where I am here and that is where the biggest waves break and trim the kelp back. The wind is blowing off shore which helps set up the waves nice and vertical. This was a smaller wave that day but the one the camera guy could get because it was closer to shore.